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I’d like to let you in on something. There are two websites you need to know about. You will find this information very useful. It concerns a couple of lesser-known websites that you should be aware of. One will let you know your car’s value, the other will let you know what your ride’s correct paint hue should be. First, let’s talk about your classic’s value. Here at Eckler’s, we often get asked, “What’s my 19__ Chevy ________ worth?”
If you plan on removing your crankshaft while leaving the rod and piston assemblies in the bores, attach a rubber band to a bolt on each rod and to a reinstalled oil pan bolt. This will keep the rods off to the side and from banging into the block when pulling the crank out.
If you have modified your classic Chevy and are using fiberglass, you'll be interested to know that soda blasting works very well on this material- cutting paint and top coats without damage to the fiberglass. It’s ideal for small parts and spotting in small repairs.
In the instance when purchasing a new ashtray for your classic is just not feasible (not available, price too high, etc.), why not restore your current one? Sure, it may look really ugly, but that can be fixed pretty easily.
Let’s face it, filthy ashtrays not only look bad, they smell bad too. First, clean them thoroughly with soap and water. A toothbrush or small wire brush may be needed to get rid of encrusted buildup. After the parts are completely dry (use a hairdryer if necessary to get into the tighter cavities), it’s time for paint. Spray metal ashtrays with silver (or metal colored) paint to make them look new (Krylon Stainless Steel works great). Spray plastic ashtrays with crystal clear lacquer to make them look unused.
Whether you are installing your new exhaust system yourself or having a pro handle the job (our recommendation), it’s important to loosely fit all the sections before you attempt cutting, clamping or welding the system together. This will save lots of time and frustration, not to mention a better fitting exhaust system!
While many folks are content with slapping on a new set of front discs, very few people take the time to do it right and upgrade the rear as well. There’s a host of reasons to pitch out those old shoes and slap on a set of rotors, the obvious one being vastly superior braking advantages. Control is another one. Most older cars are nose heavy to say the least. Travelling 60 mph in a 4000 lb. vehicle and dropping the anchor on a car that’s front-only disc brake equipped can bring about some scary end swapping. A quality set of rear discs can keep the rear end at bay and greatly reduce stopping distances. Add not having the hassle of replacing worn shoes, and the conversion route is starting to look pretty worthwhile.
When installing an open-element air cleaner, use a drop-base unit. This will allow for additional hood clearance, and it opens up the possibility of using a larger filter element.
