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Car enthusiasts are steeped in all manner of specs, facts and data– but does it make us better drivers? While most of us would like to think we’re handier behind the wheel than most, a quick look at this, this, and this reminds us that knowledge or passion does not beget skill.
That’s where the Tire Rack Street Survival day at the National Corvette Museum Motorsports Park comes in.
While reserved for youth aged 15-21 with a valid drivers license, the all-day, hands-on course looks to teach teens about proper vehicle control and the techniques needed to drive in the real world.
My wife Debbie and I first got hooked on classic cars about ten years ago. We had a Chevelle at that time, but I had always wanted to own a ‘55 Chevy. After a considerable discussion with my wife Debbie, we sold the Chevelle and went looking for a ‘55.
By the time we attended the 2006 Winter National event in Orlando, Florida we had only been looking for a ’55 to buy for a few weekends. While viewing all the great Tri-Fives at the show, we noticed a ‘55 Be1 Air 2-door Sedan along a fence with a For Sale sign in the window. I asked my mechanic friend, Larry Hays, who was with us, to check out the car. After crawling under, on, in and all around the car, we decided to purchase it and start a frame-off restoration. We learned that the previous owner was from our home state, Virginia. Debbie later found out the car came from her hometown, Staunton, Virginia.
Time: 1 hour (approximately)
Tools: standard socket set, standard wrenches
Cost: approximately $175-200
Tinware: front sway bar, new sway bar bushings, new sway bar end links (recommended), lubrication grease
Tip: Before removing anything from the car, take note of the sequence of the bushings in relation to the lower control arm and the sway bar. This will eliminate any confusion during reassembly.
Performance gains: a tighter, better-handling front end and longer lasting components
Time: Approx. 2 hours
Tools: standard wrenches, small flat-blade screwdriver, razor blade
Cost: approximately $75
Tinware: transmission cooler and installation hardware (included in most kits)
Tip: Allow the transmission to completely cool before attempting to drain the fluid or disconnect any lines under pressure.
Performance gains: a cooler, more efficient transmission capable of handling increased loads and horsepower
Chevrolet Performance, the high-performance parts division of Chevrolet, has announced that it will increase its contingency payouts to those who race in NHRA-sanctioned events using Chevrolet Performance parts while displaying the brand’s decals.
Says Jim Campbell, General Motors U.S. Vice President of Performance Vehicles and Motorsports, “Chevrolet has a long history of supporting NHRA drag racers and our 2014 contingency program rewards sportsman and Pro Stock racers for top performances. When you race with Chevrolet Performance parts and display our decals, you are eligible for a contingency payout that can be reinvested in your race team.”
Whether you are installing your new exhaust system yourself or having a pro handle the job (our recommendation), it’s important to loosely fit all the sections before you attempt cutting, clamping or welding the system together. This will save lots of time and frustration, not to mention a better fitting exhaust system!
A few things you should know about show judging: Every Tri-5’s exterior, regardless of class, is judged for panel alignment, sheetmetal condition, fit of moving components, and finish quality on the entire exterior to include glass, wheels & tires. All these items need to be addressed as the car is being restored, as trying to gain point loss on a completed car is costly and sometimes difficult. Cleanliness of these areas should be addressed prior to the event, but is one of the few things that can be maintained at the show.
While reading a local newspaper in July 2005, my wife noticed a ’57 Chevy for sale. She mentioned it to me, asking if I thought her brother Bobby might be interested in it for parts. I decided to go and take a look. What could it hurt?
The car was sitting in a rural area about thirty minutes north of our home. It had been sitting, all but forgotten, among the rice fields. I found a rodent-infested 210 with rotted tires, rusted rims, no carburetor, and a trailer hitch that was attached to a frame made of heavy-duty iron. The color was an awful faded shade of red.
While many folks are content with slapping on a new set of front discs, very few people take the time to do it right and upgrade the rear as well. There’s a host of reasons to pitch out those old shoes and slap on a set of rotors, the obvious one being vastly superior braking advantages. Control is another one. Most older cars are nose heavy to say the least. Travelling 60 mph in a 4000 lb. vehicle and dropping the anchor on a car that’s front-only disc brake equipped can bring about some scary end swapping. A quality set of rear discs can keep the rear end at bay and greatly reduce stopping distances. Add not having the hassle of replacing worn shoes, and the conversion route is starting to look pretty worthwhile.
